Bike finally fixed!

[rideonXX]

Arle's information is well put and good advice where to focus to make pleasantly surprising changes in the ride/handling characteristics of the Bird. Personally I prefer the HyperPro progressive springs rather than the linear for street riding and occasional track days, but that's a personal choice where you can research the advantages claimed by each type. By flushing my front forks regularly (about every 10K miles or a little less) and using Silkolene (Yes, I consider this brand important as it has most stable specs) 05 Full Synthetic Race fork oil---I have found the stock valving to be quite good---but admittedly I have not ridden a Bird with the Gold valve treatment. If you decide to go with HyperPro springs---make very sure you follow the directions for fluid volume according to their recommendations as it is much lower than stock. I run a Wilbers rear shock that I bought during a CBR1100XX.org group buy a few years ago---for me it's worked very well. A high dollar Penske or Ohlins with remote would be very sweet. I had to change my steering head bearings at around 45-50K miles so went to roller instead of the stock balls-----much nicer IMHO.

Anyway, post your details and I'm sure Arle, or myself, or both can help you get is sorted. Happy trails, kel

[Astroblue]

Thanks for the advice Kel!
In full gear I weigh about 185 - 190 lbs, and I ride solo. Better half won't ride with me. I'd like to improve the bike's turn-in as much as possible without adversely affecting how it it is on the highway, since the bike is mostly for regular transportation.
A good friend of mine is an engineer at Works Performance. I might seek his advice too, in addition to what you've provided.
Another issue I'd like to address is the linked brake system. I don't like it and I'd be glad to be rid of it.

[Canadian Bird]

http://www.jaws-motorcycles.co.uk/bird2.htm#link Jaws, a Brit company of the dot uk dot org BlackBird site, offers a de-link kit. He also offers steel lines from Hel and Goodridge. From the BlackBird dot com site you can get a rear Brembo conversion. I personally don't feel I ride well enough, even after 192,000 kms on my Bird, to de-link my brakes. I recommend going steel lines, a de link kit, and perhaps a Brembro conversion. Master cylinder, etc. It's all available. Frankly, if you want your Bird to brake better, handle much better, ride better, you need to spend some dosh. Maybe not everything, but once you start, it's a snow ball rolling downhill. I even swapped out my oil lines with Hel steel lines. Galfer wave rotors from this site. I use Motul 5.1 hydraulic fluids. The Bird dot com site is the premium BlackBird site and I doubt you'll have a question that can't be answered from that site. Cheers

[rideonXX]

Originally Posted by Astroblue

Thanks for the advice Kel!
In full gear I weigh about 185 - 190 lbs, and I ride solo. Better half won't ride with me. I'd like to improve the bike's turn-in as much as possible without adversely affecting how it it is on the highway, since the bike is mostly for regular transportation.
A good friend of mine is an engineer at Works Performance. I might seek his advice too, in addition to what you've provided.
Another issue I'd like to address is the linked brake system. I don't like it and I'd be glad to be rid of it.

Your welcome Ross & please note that Arle has provided very good information and sources. He adds what he can, I add what I can and hopefully you get your Bird sorted to the point you are very happy with it.

You didn't mention how many miles are on it. That is pretty important as there is a time when trying to squeeze adequate performance out of an old rear shock is just not worth the effort. You may not have reached that point but if you have 35K+ on it--well, life could be a lot better.

Since you know an engineer at Works-----see what they can do for getting you 'hooked up' with a rear shock and perhaps even the correct front springs for you. They make some great products! I had them build me some shocks for an early Wing and installed their front springs. What a difference it made!! So, they are very capable. Just because their name isn't tossed around and as recognizable as Ohlins or Penski does not mean their gear isn't better than you can imagine. They had a different way of approaching the front spring question----at least for the older bike I had. They used two, different rate springs in each side. But, those were different forks than the Bird so I don't know what they would have for that----but I'm sure they have it sorted out.

If you are not ready to put any bigger money into the suspension right now, I would advise you have someone help you measure the current sag both front and rear (so you will know if you need to add to and takes away from the front spring spacer in order to get the front sag correct) Since the Bird is under sprung and over damped---you will be needing more preload. After you have got the measurements, pull the forks, flush them well (I use mineral spirits for that) hang them upside down and let drain overnight---then refill to the proper level according to the manual with the 05 Weight fluid I mentioned. With stock valving anything heavier will leave you with a bit too much damping----in my opinion. To get more insight on that check out some of Dave Moss's videos on You Tube. In the search just type Two Clicks out----and away you go.

When re-installing the forks raise the tubes in the triple clamps by about 10mm. Don't overdo it or it's gets 'twitchy,---but 10 will work, be stable and provide a much quicker 'turn in'. You do loose a little ground clearance so if you are currently touching down any 'hard parts' like the front of your fairing lowers----then any lowering is not advised of course. In that case add a spacer to the top of the rear shock. Guys on the sites Arle mentioned can provide the information and I'm sure some one on the dot org site can sell you a spacer for that. Also, as you know, different tires have different turn in characteristics----the sites mentioned can provide some heads up on that. Proper tire pressure in MAJOR! You should be getting a 10% increase in pressure from cold to hot(1/2 or so of your normal riding). If you are getting more change than that--you are too low and the bike will feel heavy and slow turning. Less than that & tires won't be heating up to the ideal for 'stick' and the ride will be a bit more harsh and have more of a tendency to feel 'twitchy'.--------Jusy sayin'

If you are getting up to 35K+ or have been doing many 'not so smooth' wheelie landings----be sure to check your steering head bearings. They are a weak spot for sure as they net 'notchy' in the races. ALL BALLS provides some nice roller bearing sets for when the time comes. I think I changed mine at about 45K----much better now. Not something you have to worry about letting you down---just a bit distracting in the feel. I should change them in my ST as they have been notchy for the last 20K or so--probably do it the next time I have all the plastics off.

Get it set up pretty close for you---and you won't believe the difference & we are not talking about a lot of money. The biggest expense will be a decent shock for the rear----but if you have really low miles (under 20K) on your Bird----you can put HyperPro or whatever Works can set you up with front and rear--that match for under $300. and great folk fluid will run you about $25 Liter---one will do it. Some mineral spirits to flush and a little time & effort and you will be 'rockin'------happy trails, kel

[Astroblue]

Thanks Arle! Your links & advice will be very helpful. I'm hoping to be as budget-oriented as possible, but if I can enhance the already excellent handling of my bike, it's going to be safer too, so if I do need to spend some dosh, I'll do it.

[Astroblue]

Originally Posted by rideonXX

You didn't mention how many miles are on it. That is pretty important as there is a time when trying to squeeze adequate performance out of an old rear shock is just not worth the effort. You may not have reached that point but if you have 35K+ on it--well, life could be a lot better.

Wow.... thanks again Kel! My bike has a bit over 12k on it. But I would imagine that since my bike is an '03 that seals and oil may be degraded simply from time alone? Even after the new tires and the checkup the bike just doesn't seem to be quite as sharp and stable as it did when I bought it. And I weigh less now than when I did then. As for tire pressures, I'm very meticulous about maintaining them. The XX seems more sensitive to tire pressure variances than my 600RR did.

[Canadian Bird]

At 12,000 miles, 19,000 kms, I don't see needing new shocks yet. In fact not much is my experience. Maybe new fork oil. Do you have the owner's manual? Also, if you don't already, get the Hanes manual to guide you in maintaining your Bird. You can download it on the CBR dot com site. Tire pressure it seems is like asking about oil,tires, and women. The opinions go on for ever. I like to run full pressure others like lower pressure. Touring on the Bird isn't like doing a track day, low pressure doesn't serve the Bird well, imo. Cheers.

[rideonXX]

Originally Posted by Astroblue

Wow.... thanks again Kel! My bike has a bit over 12k on it. But I would imagine that since my bike is an '03 that seals and oil may be degraded simply from time alone? Even after the new tires and the checkup the bike just doesn't seem to be quite as sharp and stable as it did when I bought it. And I weigh less now than when I did then. As for tire pressures, I'm very meticulous about maintaining them. The XX seems more sensitive to tire pressure variances than my 600RR did.

Again, you are more than welcome.

With only 12K on your Bird----it's still 'new'. Shock should be good for at least 25 or 30K---who knows? If you are pleased with it now and just looking for more responsive handling--that is easily done----but she's a BIG girl---never be as 'flickable' as the 600RR---but it can be very comfortable and still a lot of fun with proper set up. As I mentioned, please do yourself a favor and watch some of the clips of Dave Moss tuning & educating about suspension at the track---and yes, everything that applies there applies on the street as well. Your seals and fork fluid will not be bad because of age---but the forks should be flushed. You won't believe how nasty it will be. After all, the folks get a real workout---you will see when you do it.
The premium fork fluid and mineral spirits to flush with will probably run about $35.00 total. By the way, the reason for the synthetic fork fluid is that it's a whole lot more stable relative to temperature. If you don't mind having a stiff, harsh ride while your folk fluid is warming up---buy the cheapest stuff you can find, in a weight that makes sense--not like the thick stuff Honda used stock, as it's not 'protecting' anything like engine oil is.

As for tires---they make a HUGE difference in the way the bike handles. Read the threads where the riders are 'discussing' them---you will get some insight as to which brands have profiles that favor the type of turn in you prefer and the amount of feedback they provide the rider. I am assuming that since you were riding a 600 RR before you are already pretty sensitive to such things. As for the pressure issues---Dave Moss in the clips will explain how to 'read' your tires. If you are mostly a somewhat casual rider (nothing wrong with that) then learning to 'read' tires is of questionable, usable value since your not really stressing the tires and testing their ability to hang onto the road surface.

Wishing you many, many happy trails, kel