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AudioVox Cruise Control Installation - pics, docs
Published by pashnit
11-20-2004 |
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#1
By
pashnit
on
11-20-2004, 08:32 PM
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Re: AudioVox Cruise Control Installation - pics, doc
Note: What follows is an incomplete copy of the text by H. Marc Lewis and Arlen Bloom who wrote the above document. Should wet your appetite.
The Servor Motor ![]() Take the servomotor pictured above and set it on an open work surface, as we need to make a few changes to it. On the end opposite the long servo cable, unscrew the small plastic cover. Look inside at the printed circuit board and notice a small black square of plastic that serves as a configuration jumper. It can be found at one end of the 7-position switch pack. Take the jumper off its 2 pins and turn it 90 degrees and place it back on either pin. This tells the unit it is being installed in a vehicle with a manual transmission. Let's program the switch pack. • To set the Pulses Per Minute for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000, set Switch 1 to ON and Switch 2 to OFF. • Set the Speed Signal for Tach Only by moving Switch 3 to OFF. • Set the Sensitivity to LOW for light vehicles with high horsepower by moving Switch 4 to ON and Switch 5 to OFF. • When using the included Control Pad, set Switch 6 to OFF. • Tach Source Select is for a coil connection; set Switch 7 to ON. Now find the large wiring harness and attach it to the keyed 10-pin connector. Lay the wires flat before replacing the plastic cover which will weatherproof the switch pack and harness connection. The metal strap on the servomotor will be used to mount the servo to the bike, but it needs to be removed and re-attached so it points in the opposite direction as shown above. By holding the unit in position under the right side cover and putting the bracket between the tool tray (remove the 10mm mounting bolt) and the frame, you can decide where and how much the bracket should be bent to facilitate an installation which will not interfere with the side cover when it is reinstalled. Now mount the servo via the bracket by slipping it between the plastic tool tray and the frame and reinstalling the 10mm bolt in the tool tray. The servo cable should be routed forward behind the frame and up into the engine compartment under the gas tank. |
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#2
By
pashnit
on
11-20-2004, 08:32 PM
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Re: AudioVox Cruise Control Installation - pics, doc
Building the vacuum canister
To make the cruise control operate more smoothly when going up and down hills and eliminate surging, it is desirable to add an extension vacuum canister to increase the vacuum capacity of the unit. The actual configuration here is pretty subjective, but this particular setup will work and is shaped to fit in the small space left around the servo. You will need the following parts not included in the kit: • 1&1/2" PVC end cap • 4" length of 1&1/2" PVC pipe (I used the more expensive Spa Hose, but • plain pipe is fine.) • 1&1/2" PVC 90degree Elbow • 1&1/2" PVC to 3/8" threaded fitting • PVC pipe adhesive • Teflon pipe thread tape • 3/8" male to1/4" female brass fitting • 1/4" male to 3/16" rubber hose brass fitting ![]() |
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#3
By
pashnit
on
11-20-2004, 08:32 PM
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Re: AudioVox Cruise Control Installation - pics, doc
Installing the vacuum canister
Sand all PVC mating surfaces with coarse sandpaper and glue it all together with a coating of adhesive. After assembling each glued joint, give it a 1/4 turn twist to make a more positive seal. Use the Teflon tape to make a couple rounds of each brass fitting thread and wrench the fittings together until they are snug. The vacuum canister can now be tie-wrapped below and behind the servomotor (using any method you are comfortable with) and is ready to have the vacuum hoses connected. ![]() |
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#7
By
pashnit
on
11-20-2004, 08:34 PM
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Re: AudioVox Cruise Control Installation - pics, doc
"I mounted my control pad on the handle bar using the unused 10mm mirror mount. I made a very solid bracket using two 4" lengths of adjustable bookshelf support."
Weatherproof the control pad by taking it apart and removing the membrane switches from the housing. Smear some silicone adhesive around the holes in the housing and replace the membrane. Snap the control pad back together then smear some more silicone around the seam on the back and gob a liberal amount around the wires where they come out the back. Looks waterproof to me. Bolt the 2 bracket pieces together with a 1" 10-24 machine screw and put a nylock nut on it. Drill a 7/16" hole down through the edge of the bracket for the 10mm mounting bolt. Bolt length will vary depending on what else you have mounted with this bolt. I also have heated grips and a GPS mounted here. The large hole you see here allows the wires to poke through and the control pad will adhere flat to the bracket. The control pad is mounted to the bracket with the included 3M tape and the wires are routed through the bracket and out the end. I put some heat shrink tube on the wires and the machine screw to prevent chafing. ![]() |
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