Best Stator Cover for Twisties on Hayabusa

[ssgunny]

I saw an old group purchase for Woodcraft covers through Pashnit so it has brought me here to ask a question. I have touched the bottom edge of my stock stator cover and the bottom bolt while in a left hander. I see that Woodcraft and Vortex provide what looks like a little more clearance on the bottom edge. It even looks like the Vortex bottom flange is thinner so the bolt head sits closer to the bike. Is this true?

Thanks in advance,
John

[bosozoku]

Welcome to Pashnit!.

Before you get a different cover, there's a more pressing issue to deal with: ground clearance is insufficient. Is the bike's suspension still stock?.

Tim, the white courtesy phone, please.

[ssgunny]

Thanks for the response. Yes, the suspension is stock and if it is adjustable I have not changed anything. I bought the bike new in 2001. I thought suspension might have something to do with it and asked that on hayabusa.org. I weigh 270lbs btw.

If I am able to fix the problem with the suspension end of it I will end up getting a new stator cover anyway since I am not sure how thin the ground area is.

Thanks,
John

[ssgunny]

Reading on the .org forum says the fork springs are meant for a rider half my size. Also fork oil should be changed every 5 years and mine is going on 10. Through tuning the compression and rebound dampening I should be better off.

John

[bosozoku]

Originally Posted by ssgunny

Reading on the .org forum says the fork springs are meant for a rider half my size. Also fork oil should be changed every 5 years and mine is going on 10. Through tuning the compression and rebound dampening I should be better off.

John

fyi...fork oil, like brake fluid, should be changed annually. Half a decade is far too long, unless you're the source of new fork-parts.

Damping adjustments won't do much, if anything, until the right springs are installed so you can have the correct amount of sag. The other end will most likely need a spring upgrade as well.

It's a bit of a hassle and a healthy dip out of your wallet, but you'll be rewarded with a much nimbler bike that's probably a better handler that it was when new.

And there will be no more ground clearance issues, until you try a day at the track.

[ssgunny]

Yearly huh? I guess I better get hopping and learn how to do it myself to save me some dough. Thanks for the link. It is explained on the other site about the 30% Laden Sag target. Once the fluid is changed I will work as close to that goal as I can.

[bosozoku]

Yearly fork-oil changes are probably overkill for most folks, unless it's their track-day bike. It doesn't wear out: it gets contaminated with fine steel debris created by the springs working/rubbing up and down inside the fork tubes, and it doesn't take much mung in there to have unhappy dampers or even plugged compression adjuster passages.

[ssgunny]

Well the new fork springs (1.10's) and oil are installed. I also added two rounds of preload to the rear spring even though it is in need of a beefier one and this time the right lower fairing received some rash. My next move is to raise the rear and inch with a new set of dog bones. This winter I may see about a spring change for the rear and shock rebuild.

I think these changes just lead to more speed in the turns which requires more lean angle which results in more rash on the bike.

[bosozoku]

Originally Posted by ssgunny

Well the new fork springs (1.10's) and oil are installed. I also added two rounds of preload to the rear spring even though it is in need of a beefier one and this time the right lower fairing received some rash. My next move is to raise the rear and inch with a new set of dog bones. This winter I may see about a spring change for the rear and shock rebuild.

I think these changes just lead to more speed in the turns which requires more lean angle which results in more rash on the bike.

So what's your spring sag now, after the new springs?.

[ssgunny]

Originally Posted by bosozoku

So what's your spring sag now, after the new springs?.

With the adjusters socked down too flush with the fork cap (max spring preload) my static sag dimension was 3.950" (now it is 4.5”)

With the adjusters spun out too 15.25 revs out (minimum spring preload) my static sag dimension measured 3.450” (now it is 3.9375”)

I only have 2.25 turns of preload which gave me 3.5625 of laden sag (me on the bike with rear stand). I figure that leathers and other gear would compress them a bit more. I figured 33% laden sag was 3.449" and 30% was 3.59” number so I am closer to the 30% number if I did my math right.