34 Days Through the Western United States and Canada

Day 26 – Wednesday August 24th
Superior, Montana to Lowman, Idaho
Lolo, Bitterroot, Salmon, and Boise National Forests, Sawtooth Mountains


Although the skies were starry and clear when I arrived at Thompson Peak last night, the clouds have returned this morning. At first sight of the clouds I’m disappointed, thinking another cloudy day’s ride is in store. But a glimpse toward the west shows signs that the overcast is breaking and sparks hope for good weather.

I plan to ride the eighty-five miles back to Missoula this morning before eating breakfast. Before heading out, I take a few pics of my very unique accommodations for previous night, an active United States Forest Service fire lookout tower. The only caveat to my thirty-five dollar reservation for the Thompson Peak Lookout is the condition that there are no fires in the area. As luck would have it, there were none around this year.

Not a typical hotel room - Thompson Peak Lookout



Thompson Peak Lookout is located in Montana’s beautiful Lolo National Forest, home to many different species of wildlife, big wildlife at that. Although I didn’t see any, I must say that the thought did cross my mind a few times last night while trying to find my way up here in the dark.

Surrounding Peaks of Lolo National Forest from Thompson Peak Lookout



Thompson Peak is the tallest peak in Lolo for miles around, and the view is panoramic even on a cloudy day.

West view



East view



It’s been a while since I had something to eat, so I gather up my gear and am on my way shortly after rising.

Preparing to depart Thompson Peak



By the time I reach Missoula the skies are clear. I stop for some breakfast and some much-welcome hot coffee. I fuel the bike and head south through Montana on Highway 93, a beautiful ride loaded with fast seeping turns through the foothills of the Bitterroot Mountains.

Highway 93, ten miles south of Hamilton, Montana



Near Sula, Highway 93 follows the East Fork of Camp Creek, which looks much more like a river than a creek. A popular fishing location, I spot many fisherman wading the waters.

Highway 93 near Sula, Montana



View of Bitterroot National Forest from Highway 93 south of Sula, Montana



Crossing from Montana into Idaho on Highway 93



Lost Trail Pass is located on the border of Montana and Idaho. Although the crossing on Highway 93 is referred to Lost Trail Pass, it actually only intersects the original Lost Trail Pass originally attempted by Lewis & Clark. Although Lewis & Clark attempted to cross here in 1805, they failed. Lewis once wrote that they “were in perpetual danger of slipping to their certain destruction.” They lost the trail on the Idaho side and had to turn back disheartened. Thus the name “Lost Trail Pass.” It wasn’t until the 1850s that the first wagons and horses crossed here with great difficulty. Even today the original Lost Trail is so unspoiled and remote that the exact route is unknown.

Lost Trail Pass, Highway 93 at the Montana – Idaho State Line



Lewis & Clark would undoubtedly feel a great sense of accomplishment at the sight of Highway 93. Imagine what they might think about these two wheeled machines, how gracefully and effortlessly we sail over this terrain on our motorcycles. Considering the great hardships and sufferings they endured just trying to find the way across, I am sure these great explorers would be amazed.

Switchback on Highway 93 about two miles south of the state line



Even with today’s modern equipment and engineering, it is not easy to build a highway through this kind of terrain. The series of turns in the photograph above continues below through what is called North Fork Valley.

North Fork Valley



North Fork, Idaho is named for the North Fork of the Salmon River which flows into the Salmon River here. Highway 93 follows the Salmon River from North Fork to Challis, where Highway 93 and the Salmon River diverge. The Salmon River Valley is an incredibly beautiful ride, in some places the Salmon River Canyon is deeper than the famous Grand Canyon.

Salmon River at North Fork, Idaho



Cliffs along the Salmon River Canyon near North Fork



High-desert terrain of the Salmon River Valley



The Salmon River flowing through the Bitterroot Range



The Salmon River Valley generally parallels the Northern Rocky Mountains along the eastern Idaho border with Montana, which includes several major peaks over 10,000 feet. Salmon, Idaho is located at junction of the Lemhi, Bitterroot and Salmon Mountain Ranges and is one of the most remote areas in the continental US.

Just north of Salmon, Idaho, the Beaverhead Mountains in the Bitterroot Range of the Continental Divide form the eastern border between Idaho and Montana



Continuing south from Salmon Idaho, the Salmon river runs between the Lehmi Range on the east and the Salmon Range on the west, creating a narrow twisty high-desert canyon that is scenic and great fun to ride.

Near Ellis, Idaho



View north through the Salmon River Valley near Ellis



Wing in the Salmon River Canyon



Another lone motorcyclist winding through the valley



Beautiful and desolate high desert canyon



I had never heard of Highway 93 before leaving on this trip. I selected this route because it looked rather isolated on the map, and isolated it is, but beautiful as well. I am sure this has to be a very popular motorcycle road in these parts, but it would appear that the locals are keeping this secret to themselves.

Alone in the desert



Between Ellis and Challis, Idaho the highway becomes very twisty with numerous tight turns through a narrow and rugged canyon. In places the canyon floor is only as wide as the river and the road next to it.

North of Challis on Highway 93



In Challis I head west on Highway 75 and into the Sawtooth National Recreation Area. Highway 75 is even less traveled than Highway 93 and I feel as if I have the highway to myself. Highway 75 follows the Salmon River all the way to Stanley, where the river and the highway take a southerly turn. It’s about 6:00pm now, and the east-west direction of the valley is perfect for some late afternoon shots.

Just east of Clayton, Idaho on Highway 75, the road sign is pointing to the turn-off for Spud Creek



Highway 75 near Clayton



Highway 75 near Robinson Bar, Sawtooth National Recreation Area



Arriving in Stanley, Sawtooth Mountains in the distance



In Stanley I pick up a few provisions for the evening. I head west on Highway 21, and this road is by far the most remote of any road I have ridden since I left Kaiser Pass in California. Also known as the Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway, the traffic practically fades to nothing and the forests get thicker. With tall fir, spruce, and ponderosa pine blanketing the landscape, and the road getting narrower, I slow the pace down a few clicks and my “critter alert” kicks into high gear.

It’s 72 miles to Beaver Creek Cabin from Stanley, another US Forest Service cabin that I’ve rented just outside of Sawtooth Recreation Area in Boise National Forest. From Lowman, the last vestige of civilization along my route, it’s another 14 miles south to the cabin through a very remote area of Boise National Forest. It’s also a great motorcycle road, twisting its way through hairpins and switchbacks as the road winds its way this remote wilderness. The road climbs higher and higher, past steel gates used to close the road in the winter months.

Upon arriving at the cabin, I notice a large pile of freshly split firewood, with even more firewood stacked in the shed. Thinking I certainly won’t be needing firewood in August, I bring in my gear and enjoy the dinner I picked up earlier in Stanley. Soon after sundown, I step outside to a very chilly evening, and realize that the firewood will come in very handy tonight after all. At an elevation of 5,100 feet, it can get cold at here night, even in August. I start a fire in the wood-burning stove, which keeps the place nice and toasty until morning.

At an elevation of 6,260 feet, Stanley, Idaho is frequently listed as the coldest place in the contiguous 48 states. I will come to appreciate this little-known piece of trivia much more in the morning.


End of Day 26
Location: Lowman, Idaho
GPS Mileage = 9784
Today’s Mileage = 401

Route: Day 26


Partial Route: Stanley to Lowman