34 Days Through the Western United States and Canada

Day 32 – Tuesday August 30th
Rock Springs, Wyoming to Pagosa Springs, Colorado

Afternoon – Red Mountain Pass


Return to Red Mountain Pass

Heading south on Highway 550 I make my way into the historic Victorian mining town of Ouray, surrounded by the jagged snow-capped peaks of San Juan Mountains. The view of the San Juan Mountains that appears as one enters Ouray from the north is one of the most spectacular and breathtaking mountain views I have ever seen. The rugged beauty of the San Juan Mountains, formed millions of years ago by volcanic activity, leaves an unforgettable impression.

It’s been exactly four weeks since I last rode the incredible Million Dollar Highway 550 through Red Mountain Pass in Colorado’s Uncompaghre National Forest. With the tallest peaks of Red Mountain Pass lying to the east, most of the pass was covered in shadows the when I rode through here with Seth on the morning of Tuesday, August 2nd. I made a resolution to return here on my way home, reserving plenty time for pictures and hoping the weather would be on my side.

I arrive in Ouray mid-afternoon and this time the pass looks much different, bathed in sunlight and backdropped by a practically cloudless blue sky. Eager to get some photographs with the sun in prime afternoon position, I continue directly into the pass.

Immediately after passing the last block on Ouray’s Main Street, the road begins a series of steep switchbacks past the Amphitheater, a huge monolithic wall of granite on the east side of Ouray.

The Amphitheater marks the north end of Red Mountain Pass at Ouray



A view of Abrams Mountain from the first turn-off above Ouray



The town of Ouray is listed on the national register of historic places and began as a silver and gold mining town in the 1870s.

Placard denoting the discovery of gold and silver here in 1875



An unlined hard rock tunnel cut through a granite ridge



Looking ahead



Jagged peaks, steep inclines, sheer-faced cliffs with no guardrails between the shoulder and drop-offs reaching hundreds of feet hold one spellbound and humbled, not to mention wide-awake!

Looking north Mount Hayden in the background



Sheer cliffs, no guardrails, awesome beauty



Ascending the guardrail-less hairpin turns of Abrams Mountain is both thrilling and humbling. There is no room for stupid here. My heart speeds up a few clicks as a semi rounds a turn on my side of the double yellow, a common practice here to keep their trailers off the cliffs. Don’t ride the yellow line on these turns!

Steep ascent of 12,812-foot Abrams Mountain



A view north through the valley



Highway 550 follows the traversal of the Uncompaghre Canyon to the summit of Red Mountain Pass. Here Red Mountain Pass crosses the Continental Divide at 11,018 feet and is the origin of the Animas and Uncompaghre Rivers.

Tight turns in rapid succession through spectacular canyons



A rushing creek echoes through Uncompaghre Canyon



Wing on the Million Dollar Highway



An avalanche tunnel or snowshed provides protection from frequent, heavy snowslides



View north through the canyon



Highway 550 slalom course



Narrow canyons, sheer cliffs



Red Mountain is actually three mountains, named Red Mountain One, Red Mountain Two, and Red Mountain Three.

Crystal Lake with the three Red Mountains in the background



Red Mountain Pass is home to many mines that date back to the late 1800s and early 1900s. Now silent, these old structures are a reminder of the history of Southwestern Colorado.

A mine structure from a past era sits silently on the mountainside



Mounds remain a century later



San Juan Mountains adorn the valley to the north



Ascent to the summit



Numerous switchbacks climb Red Mountain



Every turn brings the peaks closer



Winding toward the top



Once booming mines, now ghost towns



The water in the high mountains streams has a a brownish red color due to its high sulfuric acid content. The acidic water would destroy the metal machinery of the old mines.

Bear Creek flows in the foreground past an old mine site



Mountainside mine



Another view



Higher on the mountainside, these structures show advanced signs of disrepair



Turned around and looking north from the summit



A series of s-curves on the north side of the summit



A thrilling sequence of turns contributes to one of the best rides anywhere



View south toward Silverton through the valley, another old mine structure in foreground



Descent through the valley past beaver ponds on the right



Leaving Red Mountain Pass behind



Continuing south on Highway 550 through the town of Silverton, I feel like I have accomplished my mission. I wanted to come back to Red Mountain Pass when I could see the mountains and canyons aglow in the sun. The colors of Red Mountain Pass seemed to come alive for me today. The price I have to pay is an Iron-Butt ride back to Indiana tomorrow. But the sun is still shining and I plan to spend the rest of the daylight reaching as far east into Colorado as I can before dark, that many fewer miles I will have to ride to get home tomorrow.

As I head south toward the town of Durango, I enjoy the last of the evening sun as it lights up Molas Pass.

Molas Lake and the Grenadier Mountains from the Molas Pass Overlook


By the time I reach Coal Bank Pass the landscape is swallowed up by the evening shadows. I consider stopping for the evening in Durango, but figure there are a couple hours of daylight left, so I decide to continue east to the town of Pagosa Springs. As I head east on Highway 160 into Archuleta County and the San Juan National Forest, I descend through Yellow Jacket Pass into lower elevations. Once again I am surrounded by forests of spruce, fir, and ponderosa pine.

I arrive in Pagosa Springs just after sundown and enjoy a tasty dinner at the Hogs Breath Saloon. It’s been a well-timed ride today, leaving me ample time for a good night’s sleep before the final leg of my trip, a 1340-mile marathon back home across the Great Plains.

End of Day 32
Location: Pagosa Springs, Colorado
GPS Mileage = 11635
Today’s Mileage = 478


Route: Day 32